Tuesday, November 3, 2015

The Historic Higashiyama District

I would like to to take this opportunity to introduce you to one of the most preserved areas of Kyoto: today we are traveling across the Kamogawa River to the historic eastern district of Higashiyama. It is perhaps the best place to experience traditional Kyoto. The narrow lanes, wooden structures, and merchant shops filling Higashiyama invoke a sensation reminiscent of the capital city of old. Though there have been renovations in recent years, their focus was to maintain the cultured atmosphere, not alter it. City workers removed telephone poles and repaved streets as part of this effort. The shops have aimed to accommodate tourists and pilgrims for decades, selling local specialties such as pottery, sweets, pickles, and other crafts.
The area enclosed in red is Higashiyama. It is right of the river and central Kyoto.

The district houses a number of notable attractions. Kodaiji Temple was built in 1605 in memory of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, an important figure in Japanese history who once unified the country. It features a main hall that burnt down and rebuilt in 1912 and a number of gardens. One might exit through the adjacent bamboo grove and find himself near Maruyama Park, a beautiful public park with a towering weeping cherry tree as the centerpiece.
The Weeping Cherry Tree
The park becomes one of Kyoto's most popular spots for cherry blossom viewing parties during the first half of April when the trees are in full bloom. Next to the park is Yasaka Shrine, famous as the host of the Gion Matsuri Festival every July (an event I'll talk all about in a future post). Founded over 1350 years ago, it is now among the most visited shrines of Kyoto. In front of it stands a dance stage with hundreds of lanterns that stay lit all night.
Yasaka Shrine in the evening












Back near the Kodaiji Temple, the Yasaka Pagoda looks over Higashiyama. Visitors are permitted to climb up the inside of the five story pagoda, a rare opportunity, as most pagoda can only be viewed from the outside. Finally, there is Kiyomizudera Temple, built in 780 along the hillside and the Otowa Waterfall. In front of the temple's main hall is a platform that reaches out 13 meters above the hillside, allowing for a great view of the natural beauty and the city in the distance.

Otowa waterfall is at the base of the main hall, where its waters are separated into three streams, each one attributed a different benefit when drank from. Using a cup attached to a long pole, drinking from the first stream causes longevity, the next success at school, and the last a fortunate love life. However, drinking from all three streams is considered greedy.










During March, the Higashiyama District hosts Hanatoro, a set of illumination events. For Hanatoro, the streets are illuminated by thousands of lanterns set throughout popular areas combined with flower and light displays. The aforementioned temples also participate, even extending viewing hours. Live performances are held throughout the area on streets and in parks. The lively evening atmosphere attracts many visitors during a time of day when Higashiyama is usually deserted.


I hope you have enjoyed this look into the eastern Kyoto district of Higashiyama. Its rich culture rivals that of anywhere else in Japan.